Long Island might as well be Sicily's closest neighbor. The
delis, restaurants and food markets reflect those sun-kissed, vibrant Italian
flavors.
John E. Bonk of Minneapolis grew up on Long Island, and notes that though
he's lived here for decades, he has yet to find an Italian restaurant that
expresses this unique Long Island/Italian style.
"That is not a slight to chefs locally," he continues. "It just means we in
Minnesota lack an ocean view and sensible winters." From his "ramshackle
collection of notes and observations that somehow matured into respectable
menus," he cooks dishes like today's recipe for family and friends.
"The recipe for Chicken in Vinegar and Anchovy Sauce was given to my mom by
our next-door neighbor, Rose Percicelli. Rose's style of family cooking bespeaks
Italy's southern coast. Those dishes emphasize aromatic, piquant flavors that do
not rely on pepper, but are made pungent with a judicious use of vinegar, garlic
and anchovies. Long Island has some of the best Italian cuisine you'll find
anywhere in the country. This recipe showcases the distinctive tastes found in
family kitchens and restaurants there.
"And if you happen to be in the New York metropolitan area, try King
Umberto's in Elmont and Umberto's in New Hyde Park. They are decades old,
family-owned and reasonably priced. Their dishes reflect this recipe's
distinctive origins."
WHAT'S YOUR SIGNATURE DISH?
Please send your recipes, along with stories, to Beth Dooley at bdirish@earthlink.net or by mail to Star
Tribune, Taste / One Great Dish, 425 Portland Av. S., Minneapolis, MN 55488. All
letters, stories and recipe submissions become the property of Beth
Dooley.